Middle Child

Middle Child, Dubai, UAE. A homegrown concept in a warehouse in Alserkal Avenue, Middle Child presents itself as a bistro. However, it sits somewhere between a restaurant and a café, and feels more like a personal project than a conventional dining spot. The corporate background of the owner explains a lot of this. This is not a restaurant built on the a chef’s path, but by someone who was thinking about food before deciding to create something of their own. The menu is quite short, more of list of dishes the kitchen actually believes in. The service was warm and welcoming. As for the food, it’s a mixed picture. Three dips and four salads on such a limited menu feels like a strange choice. The steak frites leans too heavily on sauce, to the point where it becomes overly sweet. The club sandwich doesn’t leave much of an impression. We left full, but not particularly convinced. Having said that, the place is consistently busy and has built a strong following. Whether that comes down to a younger crowd connecting with the concept, or simply a different set of expectations, is open to interpretation.