SFUMATO

My second visit to SFUMATO. The name is a type of Renaissance painting technique that softens the transition between colours. The restaurant is headed up by Ukrainian chef Alena Solodovichenko who used to work in Moscow’s Grand Café Dr. Zhivago. Chef Alena is also an author of a recipe book, Miss Varenichnaya. The menu centers around locally sourced produce and traditional family recipes, with focus on vegetables. Classic dishes come with a twist (cauliflower risotto) for example. My first visit was not appealing as it was marred by the confines of a constrained business lunch menu. The full dinner menu with a commendable expansion of choices promises a more elaborate and gratifying dining experience. The dishes are simple yet creative and tasteful. Chef Alena has managed to turn my perspective in a positive way. To my taste the flavors present themselves rather delicately. In a region that bears the imprint of cuisines, such as the Arabic and Indian gastronomies, with their tendency to strong flavours, a slight elevation in flavor may be warranted. The essence of culinary offerings, though pleasant, yearns for a gentle augmentation, allowing them to harmonize more prominently with the profiles associated with the esteemed locale. Recommended dishes: The caviar paired with cauliflower and the Eggplant carpaccio. Desserts include rhubarb with strawberry and the vegan dish apple with coconut which was surprisingly tasteful. In my view the desserts need a chocolate creation that truly satiates one's longing for sweetness. Overall rating is Very Good. Average PPP AED 330.